Once I knew the shape of what I wanted, I found it everywhere. One of the eco designers I fell hardest for in 2008 was Linda Loudermilk, who had literally trademarked the phrase "luxury eco." She created the whole vibe, and refused the assumption that caring about the planet meant dressing like you had given up.

She is still at it, working in advocacy and consulting. The look changed; the argument never did.

What strikes me reading it back is that she was fighting over language, and language is exactly where the law landed. "Sustainable," "eco," even "luxury eco" with nothing behind it are now a liability instead of a selling point. The FTC's Green Guides draw a hard line between an environmental claim you can substantiate and one you cannot, and the EU's due diligence directive reaches up the supply chain behind the word. The vague green adjective is becoming legally dangerous.

Linda's instinct, t develop the vocabulary and then live up to it, is the whole compliance task now. You do not get to use the words unless you can prove the meaning behind them.