I have to write this one carefully. In 2009 I gushed about Camilla Skovgaard's shoes, a Royal College of Art talent with an architectural confidence that made you understand instantly why Saks had called.
Camilla died in 2018, of cancer, far too young. Before she did, she stepped away from the punishing machinery of the footwear industry, moved to Ibiza, and started a small sustainable brand, choosing, at the end, the slower making so many of the designers in these pages were drawn to. The direction she turned toward is the one the whole industry, and eventually the law, would take.
I cannot give her a triumphant update, and I will not pretend otherwise. Some legacies are measured in what a person pointed toward. Camilla pointed the right way.